The continuing story of a rail journey through China, Mongolia, Russia and Scandanavia

Saturday, July 30, 2005

Fjords


From Trondheim, we took a train to Domblas and then changed to the train to Andlesnes. This is a small diesel motor train, modern and very comfortable. It drops through a dramatic valley between large peaks, with various waterfalls cascading from either side. The train is called the Raumla, and is one of the most attractive rail journeys in Norway.

At Andlesnes we had a four hour wait for our bus connection. Lunch fills some of the time, but there isn´t that much to see in Andalsnes. At 5:30 pm our bus arrived. This bus climbs from Andlesnes on a steep, narrow road cut into a cliff-face, making eleven hairpin turns as it winds its way up the mountain face. The road is called the Trolligsten (the Troll´s Way) and is quite spectacular and not for the faint hearted. The bus stops to allow you to take photos of the road and the 180m waterfall that cascades down the mountain face.

This road contains over the mountain top, with has larger pockets of snow remnants, which keep the streams and waterfalls running. The road runs down a valley and eventually reaches a fjord, where you leave the bus and travel across by ferry. Another bus meets you and continues the journey. It eventually comes out high on a mountain overlooking a superb fjord - Geirangerfjord. The view is fantastic, as Geirangerfjord is a narrow fjord with steep sides. The bus creeps down a narrow zig-zag road, with more Norwegian tight hairpin bends, and deposits you in the small villiage of Geiranger at the head of the fjord. Our room at the hotel, the Union, had a fantastic view down the fjord.

Next day, we travelled down the fjord on a ferry to Hellesyt. The ferry trip gives a great view of Geiranger fjord. This is a very popular fjord for cruise boats (the Queen Mary II was coming in a day after we were there). Waterfalls drop down to the fjord and small abandoned farms cling to impossible pockets on the sides.

While Norway is very expensive, particularly for food and drink, the Trolligsten bus and the Geiranger ferry are absolute bargains. They aren´t tours, but they do tell you what you are seeing and the bus photo stops are great. The views are fantastic and the bus and ferry are only about A$25 and A$15.

From Hellesyt, we took a bus to Bergen. This is a slow journey of 8 hours, but you wander through the fjord country and get a constant stream of great views. Glaciers on the mountain tops feed strong streams of blue-green water running into the fjords.

We arrived in Berger by 10:00 pm to find that our hotel is right in the heart of Bergen, fronting on to the waterfront, the market and across from the old Bryggen area.

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